Airbrush Makeup Vs Traditional Makeup
“Which is better, airbrush or traditional?”
This question.
I get asked this more than just about any other question regarding makeup. Let me begin by saying: every artist is different. This blog is strictly the way I see it, my experiences, and the differences between these styles of makeup.
First off, neither is necessarily better than the other. Every artist has a preference, but coming down to the facts on each, they are better for certain people and situations. A good artist will tell you what they prefer, a great artist helps you select the makeup that best suits you and your needs, and THAT’S what they prefer.
I will start with airbrush as that seems to be a style people ask the most questions about. Airbrush makeup is not called “Airbrush” because it makes you look like you have a photoshopped, airbrushed finish (used on the wrong person It does the opposite). It is strictly called airbrush makeup because the makeup is being applied through an airbrush gun. It is the application style, not the finish. I often find artists saying it is superior to traditional makeup, which I also don’t agree with. Airbrush makeup is fantastic on certain faces and skin types. Because of its application, it is very light coverage that can be built up. The problem is, the more product layered, the more risk of creasing and “cakeyness”. This is why you must have an artist who is very familiar with it, color correction, and a full understanding of this style of makeup or else this method can go very wrong, very easily. Airbrush has a reputation of being the longest lasting, most durable, waterproof, etc… but to be honest all of that has to do with formulas. It IS all of those things but traditional can be as well.
Which brings me to traditional. Traditional HD makeup is applied by sponge or brushes and it’s formulations come in different coverages, finishes, and product types. Like I said, there’s a good handful of artists who don’t utilize traditional. Some feel airbrush is more convenient, can be quicker, and tends to take less brain work for formulating a durable look. (Let me add I’m not bashing airbrush artists, I use airbrush when it fits the situation, this is just facts). When it comes down to it though, traditional can bring every quality that airbrush can if the artist knows what they’re doing. Unfortunately, I have seen a LOT of artists who do not understand the foundational aspects of makeup. Things like ingredients, formulas, color theory, product knowledge, etc… all are necessary to achieve the results your client is seeking with traditional makeup. Not to mention it is a lot more product to have in your kit. Since airbrush does a lot of the thinking for you, and doesn’t require as many product choices, artists many times just choose that. It’s easier. Easier isn’t always better! Remember what I said, airbrush is great on a very certain canvas. BUT most skin and faces actually do better with traditional. A lot of those “airbrush finished”, Pinterest perfect, pictures floating around are actually traditional makeup. Stage performance makeup, celebrity red carpet makeup, photoshoot makeup, etc… is actually almost always done with traditional HD (high def) makeup. Traditional makeup comes in a variety of finishes and coverage levels. With proper skin prep, application, and finish, it easily becomes sweat, tear, waterproof, long lasting, and it photographs beautifully (with the right formula!)
Ultimately, it is going to come down to the artist’s preference for your skin, and their knowledge and capability as a makeup artist. Do your research and ask plenty of questions. I personally prefer traditional HD makeup in most cases, I feel that traditional makeup can work on anyone, where airbrush is very situational. I know some phenomenal artists who prefer airbrush, so again I’m not knocking it and I do use it and find its best in some situations. Over the years and research, I have just found traditional tends to be my go to.
I know that was a lot of information, so let’s do a quick compare and contrast:
Application- for airbrush, makeup is sprayed through an airbrush gun. Traditional is applied with a brush or sponge.
Durability- both traditional and airbrush can be long lasting, waterproof, sweat proof, etc… if the artist preps, formulates, applies, and sets correctly. Airbrush is formulated to be waterproof (typically), where with traditional it is even more necessary to prep and set accordingly to create that.
Coverage- airbrush is very light coverage to begin with. If correcting any skin imperfections, typically corrections need to be done first. Coverage can become more full with more passes. Traditional comes in a variety of coverages from sheer to full and has buildable options to customize the coverage. Again, corrective work is typically done first, but having full coverage options requires less product and more of a one and done kind of application as you won’t need to layer as much to build up.
Photographic- This comes down to the ingredients in the products. Both are easily photogenic options, both can easily photograph horribly. Find an artist with experience in photography makeup! They will know what to avoid to ensure your makeup photographs seamlessly.
Creasing- again: formulation, prep work, and setting are going to be big factors in this. Both can crease, both can avoid creasing. I have noticed the more layers of airbrush done to give coverage is more prone to creasing. Not to say traditional won’t, but this comes down to your artist knowing how to properly formulate and do an application to avoid it.
Feel/weight- both makeup styles can be weightless and feel like skin, both can feel heavy. AGAIN, common reason: your artist! Airbrush definitely tends to have the reputation for being the more “skin like” feel, but I have never had a client tell me traditional felt heavy to them. In fact, they are always surprised how natural everything feels.
So this really turned into more of a “make sure your artist knows what they’re doing/artists make sure you know what you’re working with” blog. Whoops! But that’s because it’s not as simple as saying one is better than the other. The tools only work if they’re in the hands of someone who knows how to use them. It all comes down to being situational and up to the artists discretion. Do a thorough consultation, ask questions, explain what you’re looking for, and honestly: don’t necessarily compare past experiences, unless you’re using the same artist. All artists do things differently, if you had a bad experience with one style of makeup, it doesn’t always mean the makeup was at fault. Sometimes it does, but that goes back to the artist knowing the proper formulations and application technique, and also setting reasonable expectations. Remember, we are beauticians, not magicians. If your skin is textured, makeup can’t fix that, skincare does. If you show us a picture of a woman in her early 20s and you are in your 50s, it’s just not going to look the same. That rabbit trail is for a different post though!
Ultimately, the best way to know what you should choose is consulting and trialing. Talk to your artist, get their insight, and for the love of all things good please trial! Do it when you can wear the makeup all day. See how it feels, how it lasts, take some pictures, that is a great way to know if you’re on the right track!
Best of luck!!